The secret to perfectly flaky salmon

Moisture is the enemy of a good sear. Pat the salmon dry with kitchen paper, season it with salt, and leave it uncovered in the fridge for 15 minutes. The surface browns faster and the flesh underneath stays juicy.

A smoking-hot pan burns the outside before the centre is cooked. Heat a thin layer of oil over medium-high heat, lay the fillet in skin-side down, and press it gently with a spatula for 10 seconds so the skin stays flat.

The fish tells you when it’s ready. It releases from the pan on its own. If it sticks, it isn’t done.

Cook it skin-side down for most of the time, about 4–5 minutes, until you can see the colour change most of the way up the side. Flip it and give it just 1–2 minutes more.

Salmon keeps cooking after it leaves the heat. Take it off when the centre is still slightly translucent, around 52°C (125°F) if you use a thermometer, and rest it for two minutes.

• Pat dry, salt, and chill uncovered for 15 minutes
• Medium-high heat with a thin layer of oil
• Skin-side down, and don’t move it
• Flip once, for 1–2 minutes
• Pull at 52°C (125°F) and rest for two minutes

Cooking it straight from the fridge. Let it sit out for 10 minutes so it cooks evenly.

Crowding the pan. Too many fillets release water and steam instead of sear. Cook in batches.

Flipping too often. Flip once. Every extra turn tears the crust.

Salmon is rich enough for a light red as well as white. Try a Pinot Noir, a dry rosé, or a Chardonnay without much oak.

A crisp white cuts through the richness of the fish.

Ready to cook? Browse our salmon recipes and put these rules into practice tonight.